I actually took a class a few years ago for it, it was a requirement for the web design i was going for. I think it was not ...hard to learn. There is a mode where you do not have to use HTML.
I use the HTML option at times just because I know HTML.
I do not have the one that Adobe put out. I have the last one that Macromedia released.
It looks like there is a free trial. You may want to try that before you buy it. Adobe - Dreamweaver CS3, Web Site Design, Web Page Design, Web Design Software